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Friday, 18 April 2014

Kanamara Matsuri - surreal but real

In Japan the traditional can coexist with the modern in the most astonishing ways. In the city of Kawasaki the most unusual religious procession that we've ever participated in takes place. Once a year the devotees of the local Shinto shrine carry on their shoulders its sacred objects, which are ... hmmm... three large phalluses. 


The most remarkable is the big pink one...


though the most venerated is a meter long 'Kanmara-Sama' (literally 'Iron Big Penis Lord'). 


Although, it all looks surreal, it is really happening and there is seriously a religious context to it. To understand better what's going on, a short introduction to Japanese religious beliefs is necessary. Most of the Japanese declare themselves to practice Shinto and Buddhism at the same time. Buddhism does not require much explanation, though what is important to know in the Japanese context is that Buddhism is an 'imported' religion. For a long time it was practiced by higher classes of the society. Shinto (literally – The way of Gods) is a Japanese traditional and indigenous religion (or rather system of beliefs). Shinto for centuries has been practiced by ordinary Japanese. Using European vocabulary, we could describe Shinto as pagan - there are many deities that are worshiped, some of them have human features, some others are just pure forces of nature, actually almost anything can have devine powers - even the penis. Shinto is not institutionalised and there are no formal rituals to become part of it (like Baptism in Christianity). The main Shinto ritual is 'matsuri' - the local festival where the sacred object/the shrine is taken away from the temple and carried around the streets once a year. Everyone can take part in it.



Looks like super Mario was there :)



The holy thing passes through 'Torii' the gate of the shrine.


In front of the shrine the rituals take place


The prayers to the holy thing are made



There are several legends why the penis is worshiped. One says that local prostitutes prayed to it to seek protection from the sexually transmitted diseases. The other, more colorful one, has it that a demon got infatuated with a local girl. He was rejected by her and when he found out that she was going to get married he secretly crawled into her. On the night of the wedding when the groom tried to perform his marital duties a shocking surprise waited for him - the demon's sharp teeth bit off ... you know what. The girl got married again and the horror story repeated itself. The villagers gathered for a meeting and decided that enough is enough – something needs to be done. A local blacksmith came up with a brilliant idea – he would cast an iron phallus. The iron thing was made and tested, the demon broke its teeth on it, the girl got freed, married the blacksmith and they lived happily ever after. And the object that chased the demon away has been enshrined and venerated ever since. It is our suspicion though that as the time went by, the liberating phallus has grown a little bit, too :). Or maybe in this photo you can catch a glimpse of the original one :)


These days the festival became a tourist attraction and part of the revenue brought in by tourists (especially from sale of various gimmicks) is used to finance HIV research, 



so in a way, the big penis indeed contributes to protecting us from venereal diseases.  


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